What’s Cooking? Up Close and Personal with Valley Chefs Bryant and Patti Alden of the Chef’s Market, North Conway

The Mountain Ear

The Mountain Ear

January 20,2011

By Rachael Brown

Bryant Alden and Patti Alden are different from each other. It is their differences that keep the sizzle in their six-year old business, Chef’s Market, in North Conway Village.

Bryant has been cheffing for over 20 years, has held executive chef positions at the White Mountain Hotel, the Eagle Mountain House and PFG Northcenter, while Patti has accumulated over 15 years of expertise in event planning, wedding planning, social and corporate planning working at the Mount Washington Hotel, the White Mountain Hotel and the Eagle Mountain House.

The husband and wife team put their heads and talents together to open the Chef’s Market in 2005.

“Patti and I are living the dream. We say this as we do janitorial chores on a slow winter’s night,” says Alden laughing. For the couple, who live together, work together and have raised two daughters the establishment of the Chef’s Market has afforded them time to spend with their children, now ages 14 and 19. “When our children were young they were able to come to the business after school,” he says.

The Aldens decided to open a chef’s market to offer healthy affordable alternatives to fast foods, a place where guests could dine-in for lunch and take home prepared dinners for later. “We have been in the Valley for over 20 years and saw the need for an establishment that offered an alternative to fast food,” says Alden. The business is different than working as an executive chef at a hotel or restaurant but Alden says he doesn’t work any less. He has a finger on everything and faces different challenges.

The bouncing around of the economy is challenge for sure. Alden says flexibility has helped them flourish in volatile times. “You have to have the adaptability to tailor to people’s needs and dietary concerns such as nut allergies and gluten restrictions. I make a coconut almond encrusted chicken (gluten free) which doesn’t sacrifice flavor,” says Alden. Or take for example, the flourless chocolate cake, or the cheese- cake with gingersnaps crust. “It (gluten free) is a trend,” he adds. My menus are guidelines. I let my customers tailor the menu.” Modifying menus comes in handy with the Chef’s Market catering business both on and off premise. “We can get an e-mail at eight in the morning for a catered lunch for 25 the same day or we can get a walk- in requesting dinner for 40 that evening,” says Alden. The answer is always ‘Yes’. “My wife is so good on the computer,” he adds. She catches those e-mails, he adds.

Having fingers in many pots helps too. “Our business is diversified, we are not solely trying to get that person to come in and buy extra virgin olive oil or specialty chocolates, or just feeding someone lunch or just catering or hosting an event, says Alden. They do it all.

But, not without Patti being a driving force the behind the business, says Alden.

“My wife is essential to the décor “When you walk in to the store you get a Tuscan feel. I am a guy, if I decorated it would probably be hunter green and white,” he says. Patti orders all the specialty foods too. She works with brides sometimes for up to a year, towards the end Bryant comes in with food planning. “I may have all the medals on the wall, but Patti does all the detail, the marketing, the event planning, the wedding planning and administrative tasks,” says Alden.

To add to their versatility, the Chef’s Market was the original chef for Fields on the Saco, the local farm to table event, which takes place in August. Alden says they are looking for chefs to contribute this year. He has appeared on Boston Chronicle, www.tripsmarter.com with six other New England chefs and celebrity chef Tim Crehan. He was invited on the Travel Channel to talk about the first Thanksgiving and the challenges the pilgrims faced. “The pilgrims had wild game, boiled wild birds. There were no ovens to cook turkeys,” he says. You see Alden is a 13^th generation John Alden descendent of the Mayflower.

Speaking of family, it was his grandmother that taught Alden so much about cooking and shared her love of food with him when he was only sixteen. “I was a teenager working in a restaurant on Cape Cod. I didn’t think I’d make a career of this. My grandmother was a personal chef on Cape Cod before personal chefs were popular,” he says.

Alden spent time with his gram, as he affectionately calls her and learned the basics and the love of food. “I took a lot of gram’s recipes, put a modern twist on them, took some of mine and put them together in cookbook,” he explains. Alden explains that his grandmother used lots and lots of butter and lard or made chocolate steamed pudding on a coffee can on top of boiling water. Making the recipes is challenging because there were no specific ingredients, she would use measurements like scant, he says. “I loved her shepherd’s pie and baked stuff soul. I’ll take her basic stuffing recipe and then I’ll add artichokes,” he says. Or he takes her lemon poppy seed bread and will make a strawberry butter to compliment the bread.

“Working with gram was so cool. One of the things she taught me was ‘Don’t let anything go to waste’. Those things stick with you,” he says. “I know it is an old cliché, but ‘Food is Love’”.

One last thing- so is the love of a spouse. “Patti and I balance each other. I don’t know if I’d be here six years if it weren’t for all Patti does. She does so much that people don’t see,” says Alden.

For more information, visit; www.chefsmarketnorthconway.com or stop by 2724 Main Street, North Conway Village. Open daily 11:00 for lunch and dinner. Closed Tuesday.

Tamworth Outing Club and Sled Dog Racing: Breeds of their own, rich in history

The Mountain Ear January 27, 2011
By Rachael Brown

Helen Steele and Stan Coville have been around Tamworth for a long time. Neither one falls short in bringing the Tamworth Outing Club (TOC) and Tamworth Sled Dog Races a newness and freshness each year.

Coville has been heading up the sled dog races for about 55 years and Steele has been with the TOC since 1960 involved with the sponsorship of the baseball league, contra dances, junior ski program and is now the membership chair person.

Coville, who Steele says is the heart of the sled dog races, tells the story of the sled dog races (which will be held this January 29th and 30th) and the outing club.

“It is quite a story,” he says. Coville explains that Arthur Walden of Wonalancet went to Alaska and found that running teams along the Yukon during the Klondike Gold Rush was exciting and profitable. When he returned to New Hampshire in 1902, he married Kathryn (Kate) Sleeper and settled on her farm in Wonalancet. Walden ran his kennels on the farm.

In 1917 Walden's love of sled dogs led him to put together a team with the well known, loveable sled dog Chinook, a St. Bernard cross, whose birth name was Rikki. Walden renamed him Chinook.

“Chinook was smooth, tawny and a genius among dogs,” says Coville. Chinook led Walden’s sled dog team to New England victories in the 1920’s. Walden (56 at the time) and Chinook caught the eye of Rear Admiral Richard Byrd and they accompanied him on his expedition to the South Pole in 1928.

Unfortunately Chinook never came back from the expedition. Legend has it, while on the expedition, Chinook disappeared on his 12th birthday. Walden did return in 1930 and sold his interests in his Wonalancet kennel to Milton Seeley and his wife, whom everyone knew as Short, says Coville. The sled dogs kept running- have been running ever since. “It all began here,” says Coville.

“The formation of the outing club was a natural, like osmosis,” says Coville. Clara Read, Coville’s wife Nancy’s mother, was the first female sled dog racer back then. Read was also the mother of Helen Steele. So you see it’s becoming a family affair.

 “My mother Clara and my father, Richard, everyone called him Buzz, came up in the late 1800’s and began racing, around 1935, Tamworth sponsored the first races,” says Steele. Some reports say the races began as early as 1919. Around that time residents of Tamworth were thinking what can we do for winter activity,” explains Steele. There was skiing at Page Hill, where the rope tow was powered by a Ford’s Model A engine, there were contra dances, with Ned Behr calling, there was the baseball league and of course sled dog races.

All programs remain today. The ski program has morphed into a children’s junior ski program, which is now held at King Pine Ski Area. Steele ran the ski program for 20 years and now Joanne Floyd has taken over.

“It (TOC) does seem like a family.  The idea of the TOC is to get people outside,” says Steele. Coville agrees. “We want to do something nice for the community, that they would enjoy, get outside, that would attract other nice people, that maybe they might like to retire here,” says Coville.

Steele and Coville say that any money they make goes back into the baseball program, junior ski program and helps support the club.

From the looks of the crowd who attends the sled dog races, lots of people come to support the races, the club and to be outside. About 400 people, including children, come to watch the races, says Steele. The races will be held this January 29th and 30th.  The races are sponsored by the TOC, along with the New England Sled Dog Club. Coville says this is the 61st running.

 “People come from all over to race. “It is a pretty dedicated crowd, competitive, but nice,” says Steele. “It is amazing to watch the dogs. These dogs are so well cared for; they are even fed organic eggs. The dogs are so excited to race. It is really a team effort between the dogs and driver,” she adds.

On race day the dogs begin on Chocorua Lake and run the surrounding trails from 9 am to 3 pm Saturday and Sunday. About sixty sled dogs teams will compete with the largest teams competing in the Pinetree Power Classic, an 11 mile run. The race is free to spectators. The cook shacks will offer chili, hot dogs, hamburgers, hot chocolate. Pins and buttons will be sold. Proceeds help benefit the Tamworth Outing Club and its programs.

“I love the dogs, the energy, the excitement. You stand outside, it is a little cold, but you have hot chocolate, you can smell the wood fires, feel the cold air. When the first dog comes over the line, it is emotional, just like watching a horse race,” Steele says.  “This is the fabric of New Hampshire,” she adds.

For more information about the Tamworth Outing Club and the upcoming sled dog races contact Helen Steele at: helenwodc@msn.com

Mount Washington Observatory New Year’s Eve Edu-Trips soar above the treeline

Mountain Ear

January 20, 2011

By Rachael Brown

HOME OF THE world’s worst weather, just may have the best food and the best overnight trips. This past New Year’s Eve nine guests enjoyed a nine-course meal and an overnight stay 6,288-feet above sea level at the summit of Mount Washington.

The event kicked off the New Year and the beginning of the Mount Washington Observatory's (MWOBS) Winter Summit Adventures on top of the tallest peak in the Northeast. This was the second annual New Year's Eve fundraiser, led by Michelle Cruz, Mount Washington Observatory education director and her husband, Dave Lottmann, an experienced climber. John Bauhs and Ed O'Malley, Observatory volunteers, put on a culinary extravaganza.

"It was a blast," says Michelle Cruz. "We had nine people sign up this year, members and non-members ranging in ages. Everyone was up for an experience on top of Mount Washington," she adds. It was an opportunity for people to walk around the summit, talk about hiking the mountain and learn about the behind the scenes operation at the weather station. You see, the MWOBS operating under the laws of New Hampshire is a private non-profit scientific and educational institution, which promotes understanding of weather and climate. MWOBS maintains the weather station at the summit. Cruz says the summit was in the fog New Years' Eve day, it was weirdly warm, in the low thirties, but the fog cleared just in time for sunset. Guests, all fourteen, staff included, and then sat down to enjoy a nine-course meal.

The dinner began with a salad of smoked salmon and lentils, followed by cauliflower soup with cumin and roquefort. The third course was shrimp primavera with roasted garlic sauce; the fourth course roasted quail with grapefruit and green peppercorn, followed by roasted tenderloin of pork with mustard sauce and dried fruits. To cleanse the palette, the sixth course was assorted fresh sorbets, chased with medallions of venison with a confit of wild mushrooms and red wine sauce. Course eight was introduced with assorted cheeses and the finale was mango tarte tatin with vanilla sauce and coconut ice cream snowballs. The courses were paired with wine and chef Bauhs presented each course with descriptions. It was a leisurely meal beginning around 7 p.m. and culminating at 10 p.m.

Great food: great conversation. "We shared stories of mountaineering. One guest has climbed six of the seven highest peaks and is preparing for Everest," says Cruz. He also gave a presentation. "It was just like hanging out with friends and family," says Cruz. Guests share a passion for the mountain, appreciation and support of the Observatory and staff.

The idea was born from two volunteers.

Bauhs, who is a trained chef living in Washington, D.C., teamed up with Ed O'Malley from New Jersey to put together the culinary event. "Each shift a volunteer cooks a meal for the staff. Last year Bauhs, who is a gourmet chef, found out he'd be on the summit New Year's Eve and said let's do a fund raiser," explains Cruz. O'Malley was scheduled to work, too. They put the dinner together and seven people signed up, this year we had nine says Cruz. She adds that they plan to offer the New Year's Eve celebration next year which includes the gourmet meal, lunch, the day of, breakfast the following day, a ride up and down in the snow tractor, overnight accommodations in the Observatory's bunkroom and all educational content. Bauhs and O'Malley will work together again.

The adventure is not for the faint of heart. To access the summit during the winter, guests ride up in the snow tractor. "On an ideal day, no high snow drifts, no high winds and good visibility, the trip takes over an hour. Times when snow is falling the trip can take two to three hours," says Cruz. One must always be prepared for the worst scenario when summitting the highest peak, even in a snow tractor. "We have to be especially careful of the wind chill and concern for the human factor, wouldn't want to expose humans in some conditions," says Cruz.

There are times when conditions dictate that guests may have to hike out. "Participants must be prepared and be in good physical health. This is one of the requirements to attend New Year's Eve celebration and other overnight and day EduTrips, says Cruz. There are health forms to complete before taking part, a release form and an equipment list for guidance and packing advice. Don't forget: "It is Mount Washington, we have to be careful what we do," says Cruz.

So far the trips have gone smoothly, says Cruz and there are others to choose from during upcoming the winter months. Trips run to April. Want to know some of the challenges Bauhs and O'Malley faced cooking a gourmet dinner at an altitude of 6288 feet? Check out Bauhs' overnight workshop on Alpine Culinary. Other EduTrips, both day and overnight, include: Weather Basics, Global Climate Change, Winter Mountaineering Essentials, Outdoor Photography, Winter Survival, Winter Navigation above Treeline. There are trips for educators, too. Visit http://www.mountwashington.org/education/ for more information, cost and a complete schedule. Cruz says there are still some spaces left for winter trips.

Reaching the summit of Mount Washington in winter is special. During the summer, a quarter million people visit, while during the winter months only a few hundred access the top of the Rockpile. "The EduTrips offer a very unique way to visit the summit, otherwise wise forbidden unless you are a climber," says Cruz. "Folks are thrilled they can have the winter experience."

It is a love for Mount Washington too that lures winter visitors. "What I love about Mount Washington is everyone has the same interest. They want to be on the summit at the Observatory. When you get together at dinner, it is always great. It's especially nice to see everyone exchanging information at the end. That's how John and Ed got together," says Cruz smiling.

For more information visit the web site: www.mountwashington.org or e-mail Michelle Cruz at mcruz@mountwashington.org.

Ice Carvers Rock and Flow in Jackson Ice Carving Competition Transforms 300 pounds in 3 hours

The Mountain Ear
January 13, 2011

By Rachael Brown

Bad weather can be good for ice carving. Cold and clouds are favorable, while sunshine is questionable. Mother nature and the weather gods somewhat cooperated this past Monday for the 16^th Annual Great Ice Carvers of New England International Ice Carving Competition held on the veranda of The Wentworth Inn in Jackson. The day dawned bringing in clouds and temperatures in the high teens, low twenties and 11 ice carvers from New England to participate. “We like it to be around 20-25 degrees. You know ice melts at 32 degrees,” says Dennis Hickey a 10 year plus participant, executive chef at Ciao Pasta in Franklin and co-owner of Ice Breakers in NH.

The competition began 16 years ago when the Jackson Winter Festival was cancelled that year, but the ice carving competition remained. “Jackson was going to put on a winter festival, The Wentworth’s side was to have ice carving. The festival was cancelled, but we kept the ice carving portion. Frtiz Koeppel [owner of the Wentworth Inn] said let’s do it and we stuck with it. It [ice carvings ] looks so great,” says Kathleen DeVitto, sales administrator for The Wentworth and host for the competition.

As the host for the event The Wentworth invites participants, who hail mostly from New Hampshire, but include Massachusetts and Maine, for an overnight stay at the Wentworth and are treated to breakfast the day of the competition.

But, the festivities begin the night before. “We [ice carvers] go to the Shannon Door to whoop it up. We come back to The Wentworth to sit by the fire until the wee hours of the morning, after a few hours of sleep off we go to the competition,” says Hickey.

Before the competition begins, The Wentworth prepares the ice carving stage. The competition is held on the veranda by the flower boxes. The flower boxes are covered with wood, then with a felt board, explains DeVitto. Valley Ice delivers 300-pound blocks of ice totaling 11- one for each carver. There are two carvers stationed at a flower box. Two generators are brought by. “At ten o’clock a.m. there is a power run, a test run to make sure the power is up and running. The competitors have three hours to transform a block of ice into their final creation,” says DeVitto.

That morning, the silence and serenity in Jackson is broken by the sound of chain saws, drills, and blow torches. Artists can bring their own tools and any tool of their choice. They can bring stencils or drawings too.

Veteran ice carver, Hickey, tells how it’s done. “We start with the chain saw, that takes away the ice. If we used just a chisel, we’d be here all day,” says Hickey. He explains that some carvers use drawings, stencils or even figurines. “I might be walking through a store and a figurine catches my eye or my fancy and that is what I’ll use. This year I am using a drawing,” he says.

After a cloudy start today, the sun did shine. Even though cold and clouds are the optimum conditions, sometimes the sun shining isn’t so bad. The carvers heat and freeze the ice to make their sculpture. Hickey says the way the ice is melted and frozen again really depends on what you make. Some carvers cut up half of the block of ice, then layer with water, heat and freeze to attach arms, heads, legs. The block gets fused back together.

It is quite amazing to watch the ice carvers. For the first two hours you wonder; ‘What this going to be?’ During the last 15 minutes the piece comes together. It is gorgeous, it is amazing,” says DeVitto.

Three hours passed and at one o’clock the judges did their work. Judges, Dave Mason from M&M Assurance, Thom Perkins from Jackson Ski Touring Foundation and Dick Devellian of Jackson, an ice carver himself, walked around and judged on workmanship, creativity and technical difficulty. The carvers are scored from a one to five point scale with 5 being the highest. The prizes included: first place $500, second place $250, third place overnight stay at The Wentworth in a deluxe Jacuzzi room with dinner and breakfast for two.

And the winners are….. name 1^st 2^nd and 3^rd place, After a brief award ceremony Koepell invited everyone to lunch at The Wentworth. The Gibson Center was invited too.

Speaking of lunch, it is no surprise that many ice carvers are chefs by night. Hickey is the executive chef at Ciao Pasta in Franklin, Chris Gould, Sashimi Chef at Uni Sashimi Bar in Boston, Tim Pierce, executive chef at Samoset Resort in Maine, Josh Nylin, chef at Red Jacket Resort in North Conway, and Doug Gibson, chef at Hooligans Restaurant, North Conway. “Most ice sculptors are chefs, it’s natural that chef’s do this. There are ice carvings in hotels and in the buffet set up. I do food and vegetable carvings too,” says Hickey. He adds he learned from the school of hard knocks, but ice carving can be part of chef’s formal training.

The ice sculptures are on display at The Wentworth for all the public to see. The sculptures are lit up in the evenings. “Specialty lighting and display stands were installed a few years ago to enhance the beauty of the carvings at night,” explains DeVitto.

How long will they last? “The carvings stay out on our veranda as long as Mother Nature allows. Our staff has a pool going to see which sculpture will last the longest,” says DeVitto.

To view the carvings visit The Wentworth located in Jackson Village.